Knit One Drop Two

Origami baby cardigan

2007-04-09T20:13:00.000+01:00

scroll to pattern
I have been working on a very simple, but quite complicated, baby cardigan these last few days. Simple, because there is no shaping, and the whole thing is knit in garter stitch. Complicated, because I set out to knit without any seams - not quite in one piece as I have had to cut the yarn and rejoin in another place, and I slightly cheated by grafting the shoulder seams - invisibly again - BUT there are no seams to be seen anywhere on this cute litte sweater now.

The picture above shows the work in progress. The body was knit in one piece, then split into three sections - front left and front left sleeve, back and back sleeves, and right front and right front sleeve. This is the order I worked around the sweater.
At the splitting point, I continued working just on the left front and the left arm - an invisible cast-on was used to ensure I had live stitches to pick up for the other half of the sleeve. I knit until the arm and front was finished, then parked the live stitches.
The back was worked in the same way: I picked up the live stitches from the cast-on of the sleeve, knit across the back and then cast-on for the second sleeve using the invisible cast on method. The image shows the work almost finished on the back section and back sleeves. The Cast On can be seen providing live stitches for the right front sleeve.

I decided to free up some needles and sew the first shoulder seam there and then, rather than at the end. The secret to invisible grafting is simple: 'knit, purl - purl, knit' - this is how you would normally sew into the stitches when doing kitchener stitch (aka grafting). www.knittinghelp.com has a great video tutorial for those not yet in the know!
However, with this garter stitch jacket, I needed the grafting stitch to look like a knit on the bottom row, and a purl on the top, in order to completely hide the seam. So, ensuring that two different edges are facing here (i.e. one looking like a purl edge, the other looking like a knit edge), the mantra becomes 'knit, purl - knit, purl'. This results in a perfect match for the grafting.

Picking up the stitches and making sure your pieces are facing the right way can be quite strange - it is easiest when the cardigan is folded back at the 'split' line, then it becomes very obvious. For the last section to be completed, the right front and front sleeve, I picked up the live stitches from the CO, then knit across the front and continued this section of the cardigan. Soon enough, the piece was finished and the second shoulder seam was grafted in the same way as the first.

And here we are: one cute, easy but complex, origami baby sweater!

Origami Baby Cardigan

MATERIAL
Colorado yarn, 100% cotton, 85m/50g approx.
4.5mm needles
waste yarn for invisible cast ons

GAUGE
19st x 28r = 10x10cm (4x4in)

SIZE
0-3mths

PATTERN
Using your standard cast-on method, CO 92 stitches. Knit in garter stitch (knit every row) for 50 rows. On the next RS row, k1, *k2tog, yo* repeat to last but one stitch, k1. In the return row, knit all stitches, making sure you knit the yarn overs untwisted, so they form holes. This is where a tie will be threaded through at the end.

The work now splits. Continue with the front left section, ignoring the other stitches (if you are using a flexible needle - like you would for knitting in the round - you can leave the stitches on the same needle - otherwise move them to waste yarn or another needle).
k23, then using the waste yarn and provisional cast-on method, CO 24 stitches. turn work, and knit all 47 stitches. Continue back and forth until you have knit 26 rows from the split, ending on a WS row. cut yarn, leaving a long tail, enough to BO 56 stitches (around the neck) later on.
Park all live stitches.

Next, work the back section.
Pick up and knit across 24 stitches from the provisional cast on on the bottom of the left sleeve, k46 for the back, then using waste yarn again, CO 24 stitches for the right arm. Knit every row back and forth until you have knit 26 rows from the split, ending on a WS row. Please note that you should not knit the last 33 stitches - this is to ensure that the front and back section of the left sleeve will face each other with a purl and a knit edge when it comes to grafting. Cut yarn, leaving a tail long enough to graft the shoulder seam (about 3x the length of the shoulder).

Next, work the front right section.
Pick up and knit 24 stitches from the provisional cast-on on the bottom of the right sleeve, k23 across the front. Work back and forth until you have knit 26 rows from the split, ending on a WS row. Note that you should not knit the last 33 stitches, to ensure the correct edges will be facing for grafting the right shoulder seam. Cut yarn and leave tail long enough to sew shoulder seam.

Finishing
Place 33 stitches for each arm section onto a straight pair of knitting needles. This will make grafting easier.
(Ignore 14 stitches on both fronts, and 28 stitches in the middle back section - these will be BO at the end for the neck)
Start with a purl on the front needles, and a purl on the first stitch back needle. Now, sew to the following: knit (slip) purl on the front needle, knit (slip) purl on the back needle. Repeat until you reach the end. Sew the last two stitches in pattern, i.e. knit (slip) in front, then knit (slip) on the back needle. Sew in end.
Repeat for the other shoulder seam.

Place remaining live stitches on needle(s) and BO in one go, starting with the neck stitches for front left, then back, then front right.

Sew in all ends.

For the tie, crochet a chain, or use ribbon of choice. thread through holes and you are done!

Hope you enjoyed this cardigan.

FO: More Baby sweaters

2007-03-25T14:54:00.000+01:00

I have been busy the last few days (makes a change, looking at this blog!), and knitted some baby sweaters. I love doing those because they are so quick and gratifying to do. I have been looking at patterns and was keen to try out the Baby Yoda sweater, a wrapped sweater which should be very simple to put on (no pulling over baby's head!)
The pattern for this sweater can be found here. I made mine in a cotton yarn that I got very cheap from a grocery store. 300g for £3.99 or something. Since the Yoda sweater only took half that yarn, I decided to use the rest for a second sweater.

I made a version of Knitty's Daisy Baby with a few modifications as follows:

knitted the edge in garter stich rather than seed stitch
omitted the button holes and instead added crocheted closers which I tried to give an 'oriental' (or military) feel

I think it's super cute! (Click the detail image to see the full sized picture)
Now for the question of who to gift these items to.....

Apple sweater on the catwalk

2007-03-25T13:59:00.000+01:00

tomas_apple_02
Originally uploaded by chris.sock.

Finally, a modelled version of the Apple sweater I designed and made for my friend's baby. In this picture, Tomas is 3 months old - so I guess i made the 3-6mth size (I can't actually remember!).
Very cute baby - with this lack of hair he even looks like his daddy! :D

Pattern for iSweater here

FO: Wavy from Knitty

2006-12-03T10:43:00.000Z

For Christmas, i knit the Wavy scarf for my brother-in-law. I used some Peruvian 100% wool for this - I only had 2 skeins and didn't know what to make with such a small amount. The scarf turned out a little shorter than the pattern said, but plenty long enough nonetheless. So, it seems like a perfect 'skeins leftover' project.

I hope the scarf will get some use - BIL is from Newcastle where people tend to walk around in T-shirts in the middle of winter, that's how hard they are! ;-)

I always add one of the wool labels to my hand made projects - this way the receipients will know what it is made of, and also whether it will need handwashing etc. This particular wool would fleece in the machine - it almost fleeced on the needles! So I am hoping SIL will read the label and heed the advice.

FO: Fetching from Knitty

2006-11-24T07:43:00.000Z

I knit a pair of Fetching fingerless gloves for my sister-in-law for a Christmas present. I used up some left-over wool from a sweater project years back - the label is missing but it is a silk and polyamid mix, so it very very soft and quite shiny. The colour is a bit darker than the pictures shows.

Modifications were:

Knitted slightly longer in the hand

Simple bind-off as the picot bind-off was not noticable due to the yarn used.

I am hoping she likes it.

iBaby arrives!

2006-11-14T21:08:00.000Z

Baby Tomas was born yesterday afternoon. I am awaiting modeled pictures of the custom sweater in the next few days or weeks.

Wheeeee!

Ugg Baby Boots (as seen in previous post)

2006-11-09T21:50:00.000Z

The original "Knitty Gritty" pattern for these boots can be found on DIY network. I rewrote the pattern for a newborn baby as the original pattern only listed sizes from 3 months.

SIZE
0-3 months (length of foot approx 3.5 inches/ 9cm)

MATERIAL
Small amounts of main colour yarn, and contrast yarn.
DPNeedles 4mm and 5mm

GAUGE
21st x 28R = 10x10cm with needles 5mm

DIRECTIONS

This boot is knit all in one piece, with a seam along the back of the leg and down the middle of the sole of the foot. The sole is knit in garter stich (knit every row), the rest of the boot is knit in Stockinette stich (knit RS, purl WS).

CO 22 stiches with needles 4mm and CC, knit one row

With right side facing, begin to work the sole as follows:

R1: k1, yo, k9, yo, k2, yo, k9, yo, k1
R2 and all subsequent WS rows: knit all stiches, but knit the yo’s twisted, i.e. into the back of the yarn over
R3: k2, yo, k9, yo, k2, yo, k2, yo, k9, yo, k2
R5: k3, yo, k9, yo, k7, yo, k9, yo, k3
R7: k4, yo, k9, yo, k5, yo, k4, yo, k9, yo, k4
R9: k5, yo, k9, yo, k6, yo, k6, yo, k9, yo, k5

After row 10, change to larger needle size and MC and continue in stockinette stitch for 8 rows

Shape the instep as follows:
R1: k26, ssk, turn work (ignore the remaining stiches on the needle for now)
R2: sl1, p7, p2tog, turn work (again ignore any remaining stiches)
R3: sl1, k7, ssk, turn
R4: sl1, p7, p2tog, turn

Repeat R3 and R4 4 more times.

R13: sl1, k7, ssk, knit to end of row, turn
R14: p19, p2tog, p to end of row

Now, with RS facing, knit 5cm of stockinette across all stiches.

Change to CC, knit 2 rows (garter stich), then BO knitwise.

FINISHING
Sew back seam using mattress stitch (www.knittinghelp.com shows you how)

With CC, make a fake sewing stich line down the ‘side seams’ and across the instep, to imitate Ugg boots (if required).

iSweater for Baby

2006-11-09T21:26:00.000Z

A friend of mine is having a baby around about now, and as he is a huge Mac fan (as am I), this has to be the most perfect baby shower present ever....

The pattern is my own, hope you like...

SIZE
0-3 months [3-6m, 6-12m]

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 20[21, 22.5] inches
Length: 9[10, 11.5] inches
Arm Length from shoulder to wrist: 8[9, 10] inches

MATERIALS

[MC] Patons Supersoft [62.5% cotton, 37.5% acrylic; 120m per 50g skein]; colour: natural 4[4, 5] skeins.
[CC] ggh Samoa [50% cotton, 50%acrylic; ca 95m per 50g skein]; colour turquoise 505 1 skein
1 set[s] 4.5mm circular or straight needles, or size required to get gauge
1 set 4.5mm DPNs, or size required to get gauge
3 buttons
darning needle

GAUGE
19 sts/28 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch

DIRECTIONS

Back

CO 50[54, 58] stiches in CC and knit 3 rows in seed stich (k1, p1 across the row, p1 k1 on the return so that stiches do not line up)

Change to MC and knit 5.5[6.5, 7.5] inches in stockinette

With RS facing, start raglan decreases as follows:
R1: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1
R2: p all stitches

Repeat these two rows 13 [15, 18] times until 22 stitches remain. Put remaining stitches on waste yarn.

Front

Work as back piece.

After switching to MC, knit 3 inches, then begin intarsia work as per the pattern, centering the pattern on the sweater.

Split the MC into two skeins after the first row (i.e. work the first row stranded likewise with row 18 of the pattern. The leaf at the top of the apple is worked stranded)

At the same time, having reached 5.5[6.5, 7.5] inches, begin raglan shaping as per the back.

Additionally, after 8.75 inches from beginning, begin neck shaping as follows:

Row 1: Knit to 6 stitches from centre of front piece, BO the next 12 stitches, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Row 2 [and all wrong side rows]: Purl.
Row 3: BO 2 sts, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Row 5: BO 1 st, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Continue purling WS rows, and repeat Row 5 1[ 2, 3] times-- 4 sts remain [all sizes].
Next row: K1, k2tog, k1.
Next row: Purl.
Next row: Sl 1, k2tog, psso, fasten off.

Rejoin yarn to the stitches remaining on the needle, starting with a WS row and row 3, and work neck shaping to match, reversing all shapings (purl where k is indicated, and k where purl is indicated).

Sleeves

Make 2 the same.

CO 37[ 39, 43] sts on dpns.
Row 1: *k1, p1 repeat from * across row.
Repeat this row 2 more times.
Next row : Knit.
Repeat until work measures 4.5[5, 6] inches.

Next row: BO 1, k to end, turn work (work will now be knit flat)
Next row: BO 1, p to end.
Next row: Knit.
Row 1[and all WS rows]: Purl.
Row 2: K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until 7[9, 11] sts remain.
Place these sts on holder.

Finishing Sweater

Sew all seams, except front left raglan seam for which only seam only 0.5 inches from armpit, using mattress stitch (see www.knittinghelp.com for tips on seaming)

Button row and neckband

With CC, pick up and knit 15 stitches from left raglan edge, turn work and knit 3 rows in seed stitch.
Make two button holes, using yo, k2tog, approx 1.5 and 3 inches from armpit, in the second seed stitch row.

BO all stitches in seed stitch fashion. Do not break yarn. Leaving last stitch on the needle, pick up 2 stitches from button band edge, then k across left sleeve , k tog last stitch of sleeve with first stitch of back, k across back stitches, k tog last stitch of back with 1st stitch of right sleeve, k across sleeve, k tog last stitch of sleeve with top point of the raglan, the continue to pick up and knit approx 22 stiches across front, ending at the top point of the raglan on the left side of the front.

Turn work, and work in seed stitch one row.
Turn work, p1, k1, yo, k2tog, continue in seed stitch across neckband, turn work once more and knit last row of seed stitch.

BO in seed stitch fashion.

Finish with sewing on three buttons of your choice, or make crochet buttons and sew on.

Weave in all ends and block.

Enjoy!

(For full sized intarsia pattern, right-click on the image and download to your computer)

Please notify me of any errors or omissions in the pattern - this is my first try at pattern writing. Thanks.

FO: Tubey from Knitty Winter 05

2006-11-08T22:47:00.000Z

Here is my completed Tubey from Knitty's Winter 05 issue. This was finished in early summer, but with autumn now here I have already worn it a fair few times and love it.

I knit this in DK weight, Sirdar Country Style (Highlands and Islands), and had to redo all the gauge calculations.

Some modifications were also worked:

- Size: knitted enough back to fit my shoulders, basing the width on the circumference of my arms. No bunching, perfect fitting shrug. I also lengthened the body tube until I was happy with the length.
- I liked the stripes on the arms, but not across the belly, so I frogged back and knitted the body tube plain (but boy was that boring!!!)
- I also knitted more than one row of garter stich at the end of the sleeves as it curled too much for my liking

I LOVE the neckline - might have to take it in a bit as the jumper stretches with wear - I have to see.

Finally, a sweater which allows me to wear necklaces and such - which is great because I dont have the chance often enough.

Cerise 3/4 sleeve lace sweater

2006-11-07T21:53:00.000Z

Knit with Vintage Yarn Bellmans Wonder 4-ply crepe, 80% Wool,. 20% Nylon, ca. 190m/50g
I used just shy of 6 skeins.

This is not a pattern, but a step-by-step walkthrough for making this sweater:

1. read the tutorial on top down raglan sweaters given at the end of this post, and take notes of the percentages required (construction notes: very simple top down raglan - cast on number of stitches needed for neck circumference, place markers to split stitches 15%/ 35%/ 15%/ 35%. increase each side of markers every other round until it fits under arms, knit arms and body in round, shaping as needed.)
2. do a swatch in the intended yarn and count stitches and rows
3. take measurements: round your arm, round your chest, round the belly, length of shoulder to under boob, width across shoulders, from neck to armpit
4. check your notes again, get out the calculator and figure out how many stiches to CO, how many to increase, and how to work the increases. also work out (based on your lace pattern and your belly circumference) how many stitches you want for the body, so the lace pattern repeat works and the size is right. you might need to decrease stitches at the transition.

generally speaking, you should be looking to do raglan increases on every second round. you can stretch this a bit as you get closer to the armpit - you might need more length but already have enough/almost enough stiches for your chest size. simply knit straight or change the increase regime to every 4th round or so.

for the increases, i wanted a holey raglan increase, to go with the feel of the lace sweater, so my raglan increase would read 'knit to last but one stitch before marker, *yo, knit last stich before marker, slip marker, knit first stitch after marker, yo*'

the marker was thus in between the two straight stitches, and the increases symmetrical about the marker. this went for all four increases per round. on the following round, you knit all stitches. don't knit the yo's twisted - they will turn into a lacey hole if knitted straight as they come.

for the neckline, i simply CO the number of stitches calculated, minus an inch's worth of stitches at the front, knitted for about an inch whilst doing raglan increases, the CO the remaining stitches and joining to knit in the round.

knit until you have enough to meet under your armpits.

divide the work (put the sleeve stitches onto waste yarn), join the body stitches and continue working in the round. i kept trying on the work to ensure a good fit throughout.
once you have gone past the boob, determine whether you need to decrease your stitches for the body - this would be advisable if you have a large chest and a tiny waist. i am pretty flat-ish so didn't decrease, as the lace pattern i chose forms lose ribbing and hence tightens the body tube slightly anyways.

i used an edging - one round of *k2tog, yo* followed by a plain knit round - this gives a holey edge just before your lace pattern starts. if you needed to decrease, you could replace the *k2tog* with a *sl1, k2tog, pull slipped stitch over* - this will effectively decrease your number of stitches by one every time you do this (when combined with the yo). if you have 80 stitches before, and needed to decrease 8 stitches, you would do this every 5th repeat, i.e. so *k2tog, yo* four times, then do *sl1, k2tog, ssl, yo* once.

after the holey transition rows, i then started in lace pattern. follow the pattern - i find this quite easy but some people have trouble with lace, so i would recommend inserting life lines after every full repeat just in case. www.knittinghelp.co m has tutorials on how to do lifelines.

i then knit until the body was the length i wanted, again frequently trying the sweater on.
bind off (or do an edging of your choice, then bind off)

pick up sleeve stitches and work in the round, plain knit, until you have knitted the same distance from armpit to transition row as on the body. do the transition row, switch to lace (again having checked that your stitch number will work with the lace pattern!!). knit lace pattern until you like the length.

bind off, but dont cut the yarn. use a crochet hook to crochet one round around the sleeve, in the following manner: crochet one single stitch, make two loops, insert crochet hook into the next but one stitch (skipping one stitch basically) and make a simple crochet stitch. you are basically making little arches all around the sleeve.
if you want a different type of finish, go for it. you could do a couple of rounds of a knitted ribbed pattern instead.

at the end, pick up stitches around the neckline, starting and finishing at the gap in the front, knit a rib pattern, decrease for the raglan lines, but increase with *yo, knit, yo* on the external corners of the gap that you are knitting out off, knit stitches as they appear on the return row. this is not knitted in the round, but open. knit about an inch or so, bind off, and sew the two short edges into the gap so they overlap.

hope the above is clear. it's actually not scary designing your own sweater! just a little bit of measuring, counting and calculating to do - but all easy enough!

First published on Craftster in September 2006

Links:

Top down raglan construction notes from The Incredible, Custom-fit Raglan Sweater by Pamela Costello

The Birth of the Blog

2006-11-06T23:09:00.000Z

This is it - the first post.

Hello *taps microphone* is this thing on?